Today was the day I headed to Kyoto to fill up on my cultural part of the journey.
I was a little late last night talking to an American guy called Casper, so I didn’t get around to updating the blog and adding pictures until the morning. This means I didn’t leave Shin-Imamiya until about 9am, which was a downer. I got to Shin-Imamiya station, had a bit of panic, and jumped on the first train I could, which took me to JR Namba station. Which is a one way stop, so that was a pain in the ass. So I headed back on the same train to Shin-Imamiya, and then caught a rapid train to Osaka, then another train to Shin-Osaka station, and finally booked a Hikari Bullet Train to Kyoto. All up it must have taken me about an hour and a half, the half going from Shin-Osaka to Kyoto, and an hour fluffing around getting from Shin-Imamiya to Shin-Osaka. So my travel tip – plan your travels, seriously, www.hyperdia.com is your friend when it comes to train time tables. And of course, the JR rail pass means I travelled by bullet train and all trains by free. I would probably not come to Japan without the rail pass – best way to spend 28,300 yen.
One bullet train later, I pulled up in Kyoto Station. Kyoto Station is massive, and a really interesting building to look at. I remember coming here in 2000 and seeing it, and to see it again in 2009 was awesome. The station was built in 1997 and has a massive roof over a relatively open air space. There’s an open air escalator to the 9th floor, which is where the English speaking Kyoto Tourism Center is. However, because it’s New Years, it was closed. On the ground floor of Kyoto Station is the Japanese speaking Kyoto Tourism Center, and they also speak English. Head in here to grab a map of Kyoto and also a guidebook – highly recommended. For 500 yen you can buy an all day bus pass to get you around Kyoto, and is really good value, considering each bus is normally 220 yen, so after three trips the card is saving you money.
Catching a bus in Kyoto is pretty straight forward, enter at the back of the bus, making sure you’re heading on the right bus number. When you’re at your stop, insert your all day bus pass into the ticket machine, and you’re done. Probably the hardest part is getting off at the right station. The buses aren’t as friendly to non-Japanese speakers as the trains are. Often they’ll just say the name of the stop in Japanese, so you have to listen pretty carefully to make sure you’re getting off at the right stop. And you can’t count the number of stops since the bus won’t stop at stops where there’s no one, but not to stress. If you miss your stop, just get off the bus, and cross the road, and head back up the street.
I caught the number 205 bus to Kinkakuji, which is the golden pavilion. This place is simply amazing, and is so scenic, even with the seething mass of tourists. The temple is coated in a gold leaf, which does look a little like gold spray paint, but I’m sure it’s not. However, it’s surrounded by water, and is really just a sight to behold. It’s also a UNESCO world heritage site, but there’s heaps of those in Kyoto. You pay about 500 yen to enter Kinkakuji, and you don’t just see the temple, but go for a walk through the grounds of the temple, along with the other thousands of people. Since this is the most well known temple in Kyoto, you can imagine that it’s pretty busy, and it is. After a walk through the gardens which is perfectly manicured, even down to how the trees look, it was time to have the other well known thing about Kinkakuji – Green Tea flavoured Ice Cream (O-Cha). It’s not as bad as it sounds, but it’s certainly not as nice as say, Chocolate flavour. But when in Kyoto…
Next stop on the bus is the Rock Garden. You could probably walk from Kinkakuji, it’s not too far, but if you’ve got a free bus pass, then why not catch the bus? The Rock Garden was created ages ago by a painter, and is used as a place of meditation. There is a rock garden where the rocks are arranged in such a manner that it is impossible to see all 20 or so rocks from any one place on the garden. The rock garden is just a little more intense than the one at Hamilton Gardens, but it’s the same idea. At the same place you’ll find a shrine dedicated to all the Japanese soldiers that died in WW2 in Burma. The whole grounds of the rock garden are pretty impressive, and well worth the 500 or so yen to enter.
The last temple I visited was another UNESCO site, a five story pagoda. This one was also just down the road from the last temple, but was a free temple (except during cherry blossom season). As always, the buildings, the age of them all, the size, it’s all just wonderous. I believe Kyoto must have been spared somewhat during WW2, because it would have been a shame to see all these temples damaged. I did notice that even on the oldest of temples, there’s still vending machines. The Japanese have really made spending money during sightseeing into a fine art. Once you’ve gone through this building that’s been around for 1000 years, you can buy a keyring of the place, or perhaps a good luck charm, or some ice cream, or drink tea. I guess there’s no cultural taboo about selling items in ancient temples, and fair enough. I just couldn’t imagine going down to the local marae and then buying a can of Coke there. Maybe you can, it’s not like I go down to the local marae ever, but still.
By this time it was about 3pm and it was starting to get dark. I caught the bus back to Kyoto Station to explore Kyoto downtown, but instead got distracted by a supermarket. I think you can tell the most about a culture by hanging out at the supermarket. It’s just such an interesting experience, looking at the food locals eat, seeing locals buying their day to day goods, and I enjoy going to supermarkets more as an anthropological experience, than anything else. I ended up buying a pack of Yakitori, which is grilled chicken skewers. They were delicious. I also bought some Pocky Cheese Flavour. I even bought some Fried Chicken bits, Cheese Flavour. It’s refreshing to see a culture that enjoys cheese-flavoured and grape-flavoured things as much as I do. By the time I was finished in the supermarket it was time to head back to Kyoto Station. However, the 205 bus back to Kyoto Station was packed to the limit, so standing for 30 minutes wasn’t that great of an experience. Probably didn’t help the Yakitori either.
Finally made it to Kyoto Station around rush hour. It’s always recommended to avoid travelling during rush hour, and I wholeheartedly agree. I tried to book another Shinkansen back to Osaka, but this time my poor Japanese failed me, and instead I decided to catch a local rapid train back to Osaka. Any train that’s a limited express such as the train from Kyoto to Kansai Airport, or the Shinkansen, generally needs a seat reservation. There’s always a couple of cars that don’t need reservations, but they tend to fill up pretty quickly. They also cost additional money, not a problem with a JR rail pass, but certainly an issue if you don’t have one. Rapid trains are the same price as local trains, but don’t stop at as many stations as a local train. Because of this, they are packed. I didn’t enjoy travelling for 30 minutes standing waiting to go to the toilet. It wasn’t my best travel experience. I did make it back to Shin-Imamiya, safe and sound though, and did my photos and blogs tonight. Tomorrow, another big day in Kyoto.